Back when the state was part of Virginia proper, the small-plot farmers here had little in common with the slave-holding tidewater planters of eastern Virginia. When the Civil War broke out, the area voted to set up a rival Virginia government, loyal to the Union; statehood was formalized by Congress in 1863. But mostly the state’s been known for its mining – one of America’s most powerful unions, the United Mine Workers, sprang from here, and the mining companies themselves are responsible for resource extraction despoiling much of the landscape, including the “mountaintop removal” that has rendered much of the majestic scenery a cleaved and scarred wasteland.
The state’s most popular destination, the restored 1850s town of Harpers Ferry, barely in West Virginia at all, stands just across the broad rivers that form its Maryland and Virginia borders. To the west, the Allegheny Mountains stretch for more than 150 miles, their million-plus acres of hardwood forest rivalling New England’s for brilliant autumnal colour. West Virginia’s oldest town, Lewisburg, sits just off I-64 at the mountains’ southern foot, while the capital, Charleston, lies in the comparatively flat Ohio River Valley of the west.