Boise
The verdant, likeable capital of Idaho, BOISE (pronounced BOY-see; never zee) straddles I-84, just fifty miles east of the Oregon border, and was established in 1862 for the benefit of pioneers using the Oregon Trail. After adapting (or misspelling) the name originally given to the area by French trappers – les bois (the woods) – the earliest residents boosted the town’s appearance by planting hundreds more trees.
Today Boise is a friendly, cosmopolitan and outdoorsy city of some 205,000, with great skiing, biking and floating along the Boise River (the favourite way for locals to cool off in the summer), all within paddling distance of a host of excellent independent stores, restaurants and bars. Downtown is centred on the fountains at Grove Plaza, where the annual “Alive after Five” concert series sees different food and drink vendors take over the square (June–Sept every Wed).
Boise is also unique in having the largest Basque population in the world outside of the Basque heartland (in Spain and France), and is the home of Boise State University (BSU), whose football team the Broncos (with its famed all-blue field, lined with blue-painted turf) receives fanatical support from locals – their rivalry with snooty University of Idaho in Moscow (who are reputed to consider the Broncos uncouth drunks) goes back a long way, though the two teams rarely meet these days. But perhaps Boise’s best feature is the Greenbelt, a 25-mile bike path and hiking trail that crisscrosses the tranquil Boise River, linking various parks right in the heart of the city.
Hells Canyon
From the busy little watersports and ski resort of McCALL, 110 miles north of Boise, Hwy-55 climbs steadily to merge with US-95 and follow the turbulent Little Salmon River. Just south of the hamlet of Riggins, thirty miles on, comes a good opportunity to see Hells Canyon from Idaho. With an average depth of 5500ft this is the deepest river gorge in the US, though you wouldn’t guess so due to its broad expanse and lack of sheer walls. Nevertheless, it is impressive, with Oregon’s Wallowa and Eagle Cap ranges rising behind it and the river glimmering far down below. Heaven’s Gate Overlook is the best viewpoint into the canyon from Idaho; from the south end of Riggins, allow a half-day to reach the overlook on a very steep and winding gravel road (Forest Road 517), best tackled in a 4WD. The canyon is also accessible by road from Oregon and by jet-boat trip.
Idaho’s big river adventure
Taking a five-day rafting trip down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River is perhaps the most exhilarating and unforgettable experience in Idaho; by the time you’ve finished you’ll feel like one of Lewis and Clark’s team. The river drops 3000ft during its 105-mile journey through the isolated and spectacular River of No Return Wilderness. Trips usually begin in Stanley and end in Salmon, Idaho and cost from $1665. See rowadventures.com.
Route of the Hiawatha
One of the highlights of the Idaho Panhandle is hiking or biking the Route of the Hiawatha Bike Trail (ridethehiawatha.com), the former fifteen-mile stretch of rail line between Roland and Pearson that runs through ten tunnels and travels over seven high trestles; the 1.7 mile-long St. Paul Pass tunnel is the highlight. Trail passes are $10; there is a shuttle between Pearson and Roland that costs $9. The equally spectacular Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes runs 73 miles from Mullan to Plummer (see parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/trail-coeur-d-alenes).