Observation cars and tourist carriages
Some intercity services on the hill-country route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla carry a special carriage, the so-called observation car, usually at the back of the train and with large panoramic windows offering 360-degree views and seating in rather battered armchair-style seats. All seats are reservable, and get snapped up quickly, especially on the popular Colombo to Kandy run. The fare between Colombo and Kandy is currently Rs.800 one way.
Rajadhani Express also run special tourist carriages which are attached to a few of the main hill-country and south coast express trains. Although comfortable, the carriages have small windows and limited views.
Fares and booking
Despite recent price increases, fares are still extremely cheap. You can travel all the way from Colombo to Jaffna in third class, for example, for around just Rs.335, while even a first-class berth on the same route only costs about Rs.1100.
Trains now have seats in all three classes which can be booked in advance. Reservations can be made in person at major stations up to thirty days before travel. You can also book by phone if you have a Mobitel/Etisalat account. Sri Lankan Railways don’t offer a web-booking service but it’s possible to reserve tickets online through a number of private operators.
The bad news is that on many services, reserved seating (particularly in first class, where available), tends to sell out as soon as it goes on sale, and even lower classes may be booked solid. So it definitely pays to book more than a month in advance using an online service. The good news (sort of) is that virtually all trains have at least some second- and third-class unreserved carriages. Tickets for these are sold only on the day of departure, sometimes not until an hour before departure and there’s no limit on the number of tickets sold. This means you’re guaranteed to get a ticket. If you’re told a train has “sold out” it just means all the reserved seats have gone. It also, of course, means that carriages can sometimes get packed solid.
By air
Domestic air services provide a superfast alternative to long journeys by road or rail and are memorable in their own right, with frequently beautiful views of the island from above. The main operator is Cinnamon Air, which has regular scheduled flights out of Katunayake international airport and from Water’s Edge (on the southern side of Colombo) to Koggala, Dickwella, Weerawila (near Tissamaharama), Kandy, Castlereagh (near Adam’s Peak), Sigiriya, Batticaloa and Trincomalee. Fares aren’t particularly cheap, although the flights are wonderfully scenic. Also, on many routes you’ll either take off from and/or land on water, which adds an extra pinch of fun.
By car
As Sri Lankans say, in order to drive around the island you’ll need three things: “good horn, good brakes, good luck”. Although roads are generally in quite good condition, the myriad hazards they present – crowds of pedestrians, erratic cyclists, crazed bus drivers and suicidal dogs, to name just a few – plus the very idiosyncratic set of road rules followed by Sri Lankan drivers, makes driving a challenge in many parts of the island.
Self-driving
If you’re determined to drive yourself, you’ll need to bring an international driving licence. You’ll also need an additional permit to drive in Sri Lanka, which you can get from the Automobile Association of Ceylon in Colombo (office is open Mon–Fri 8am–4pm). Permits are valid for up to twelve months and are issued on the spot.
It’s also worth equipping yourself with a good map or atlas (such as the Arjuna’s Road Atlas) – or a smartphone or tablet equivalent. In terms of driving rules, it’s worth remembering that, in Sri Lanka, might is right: drivers of larger vehicles (buses especially), will expect you to get out of the way if they’re travelling faster than you. In addition, many drivers overtake freely on blind corners or in other dangerous places. Expect to confront other vehicles driving at speed on the wrong side of the road on a fairly regular basis.
Car and driver
Given the hassle of getting around by public transport, a large proportion of visitors opt to tour Sri Lanka by hiring a car and driver, which offers unlimited flexibility and can be less expensive than you might expect. Some drivers will get you from A to B but nothing more; others are qualified “chauffeur-guides”, government-trained and holding a tourist board licence, who can double up as guides at all the main tourist sights and field any questions you might have about the country.
The main problem with drivers is that many of them work on commission, which they receive from some, but not all, hotels, plus assorted restaurants, shops, spice gardens, jewellers and so on. This means that you and your driver’s opinions might not always coincide as to where you want to stay and what you want to do – some drivers will always want to head for wherever they get the best kickbacks (and you’ll also pay over the odds at these places, since the hoteliers, restaurateurs or shopkeepers have to recoup the commission they’re paying the driver). If you find you’re spending more time stressing out about dealing with your driver than enjoying your holiday, find another one – there are plenty of decent drivers out there.
To make sure you get a good driver, it pays to go with a reputable company (such as DSL Tours or Sri Lanka Driver Tours) which employs only Sri Lanka Tourist Board accredited chauffeur-guides. Make sure your driver speaks at least some English and emphasize from the outset where you do and don’t want to go. Some drivers impose on their clients’ good nature to the point of having meals with them and insisting on acting as guides and interpreters throughout the tour. If this is what you want, fine; if not, don’t be afraid to make it clear that you expect to be left alone when not in the car.
Prices
Prices depend more on quality than size of transport – a posh air-conditioned car will cost more than a non-air-conditioned minivan. Rates start from around $40 per day for the smallest cars, plus the driver’s fees and living allowances. Most top-end hotels provide meals and accommodation for drivers either for free or for a small additional charge. If you’re staying in budget or mid-range places, you’ll have to pay for your driver’s room and food. As ever, it’s best to try to establish a daily allowance for this at the outset of your trip to avoid misunderstandings and arguments later. Your driver will probably also expect a tip of $5–10 per day, depending on how highly trained they are.
You’ll also probably have to pay for fuel – now pretty expensive in Sri Lanka – which can add significantly to the overall cost. In addition, some companies only offer a decidedly mean 100km per day free mileage, which doesn’t go far on the island’s twisty roads, so you may well have to stump up for some excess mileage as well. Alternatively, you could always just hire vehicles by the day as you go around the island. The actual vehicle-hire cost may be a bit higher, but you won’t have to worry about having to house and feed your driver.
Motorways
Sri Lanka’s nineteenth-century highway infrastructure received a long-overdue upgrade in late 2011 with the opening of the country’s first proper motorway, the E01 Southern Expressway from Colombo to Galle (subsequently extended from Galle to Matara in 2014, and with a further extension to Hambantota currently underway). 2013 saw the opening of the country’s second motorway, the E03 Colombo–Katunayake Expressway, linking the capital with the international airport. A third expressway, the E02 Outer Circular Expressway (serving as a Colombo ring-road and linking directly to the E01 – but not the E03) followed in 2014, and is also now being extended. The E04 Central Expressway from Colombo to Kandy is due to open in 2020, while there are also plans for an E06 Ruwanpura Expressway, connecting Colombo to Ratnapura and Pelmadulla.
The 350km network will, when finished, transform travel around many parts of the island. The Southern Expressway has already reduced the three-hour-plus slog from Colombo to Galle into a pleasant hour’s drive and made the whole of the southwest and south coasts accessible as never before. Similarly, the Central Expressway to Kandy is also likely to cut current journey times by about two-thirds and significantly reduce onward travel times to other places in the hill country.