Indein
The ride west from Ywama to Indein, starting among reed beds before continuing between more solid banks with jungle on both sides, is a striking contrast to the wide open space of the lake. Boats stop at a stretch lined with souvenir stalls, which gets particularly busy on market day.
Just behind the village, at the base of a hill, is Nyaung Ohak, a set of picturesquely overgrown stupas with carvings of Buddhas, chin-thé (guardian lions), devas (female deities) and peacocks. Head uphill along a covered walkway to reach Shwe Inn Thein Paya, a collection of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century stupas which is being slowly and heavy-handedly restored. On the way down, look out for a path on the left which runs through a bamboo forest back to the riverside.
Paduang "long necked" women
You may be offered the chance to see “long necked” Padaung women, so called because they wear metal rings around their necks (which actually push their collarbones down rather than elongating their necks). These women are often exploited by those within the tourist industry and it’s something you may want to avoid.
Phaung Daw Oo Paya
Boats converge on the tiered lakeside Phaung Daw Oo Paya, south of Ywama on the western side of the lake, to the extent that you’ll probably need to climb over a log-jam of them in order to reach the shore. The pagoda building is nothing special, but believers visit for the five bulbous Buddha images at the centre. Men (only) crowd around to add gold leaf to figures that are already so coated that they are no longer recognizably human in shape.
Thaung Tho
For an additional charge, it’s possible to go down to the village of Thaung Tho, which is left off most tourist itineraries. It has a pagoda but is particularly worth visiting on market day. You can also see potters at work in nearby Kyauk Taung village.