Accommodation
Rīga has extensive budget accommodation, mostly concentrated in the southern half of Old Rīga, with a few options in nearby New Town and by the Central Market. Reserve in advance in summer.
Bastion Hill and the Guild Hall
Bastion Hill (Bastejkalns) – the park that slopes down to the city canal at the end of Torna iela – is a reminder of the city’s more recent history: on January 20, 1991, four people were killed by Soviet fire during an attempted crackdown on Latvia’s independence drive. Stones bearing the victims’ names mark where they fell near the Bastejas bulvāris entrance to the park.
Cathedral Square
Cathedral Square is dominated by the towering red-brick Rīga Cathedral, established in 1211 and featuring one of the biggest organs in Europe. On the other side of the cathedral, is the worthwhile Museum of Rīga’s History and Navigation, featuring Bronze Age and medieval artefacts, such as a mummified criminal’s hand, as well as temporary art exhibitions.
From Cathedral Square, Pils iela runs down to Castle Square (Pils laukums) and Rīga Castle (Rīgas pils), built in 1515 and now home to the Latvian president. Follow Mazā Pils iela from Pils laukums to see the Three Brothers (Trīs brāli), three charming medieval houses, one of which, built in the fifteenth century, is thought to be the oldest in Latvia.
Rīga Bourse Art Museum
Opposite the cathedral, the former building of the Latvia Stock Exchange at Doma laukums 6 contains the Rīga Bourse Art Museum (Mākslas muzejs Rīgas birža), the nation’s collection of old masters and archaeological treasures. A small Monet landscape and a Rodin sculpture are the main big-name draws, although the Flemish still-lives and classical antiquities are enough to keep the interest from flagging.
Drinking and nightlife
The Old Town offers innumerable opportunities for bar hopping, with a wide range of watering holes (many serve decent food too) filling up with fun-seeking locals seven nights a week. Most dance venues offer a commercial diet of techno, Euro-hits and golden oldies, although you might get more varieties in smaller clubs, especially on week-nights. Drinks are affordable even in the most stylish places, and there's usually some sort of food menu.
Classical music in Rīga is of an exceptionally high standard. The Latvian National Symphony Orchestra and Latvian National Opera are the biggest shows in town. The theatre scene is rich and varied, although you'll need a working knowledge of Latvian or Russian to appreciate it fully.