Money
Kenya’s currency, the Kenyan shilling (Ksh), is a colonial legacy based on the old British currency (as in pre-decimal Britain, Kenyans occasionally refer to shillings as “bob’’). There are notes of Ksh1000, 500, 200, 100 and 50, and coins of Ksh20, 10, 5, 1 and 50 cents (half a shilling). In Kenya, prices are indicated either by Ksh or by the /= notation after the amount (500/= for example). Some foreign banks stock shillings should you wish to buy some before you leave, but you’ll get rates about five percent less than what you might find in Kenya. You can import or export up to Ksh100,000 (you need the exchange receipts if exporting).
Because the Kenya shilling is a weak currency, prices for anything connected to the tourist industry tend to be quoted in US dollars. Cash dollars, together with British pounds and euros, are invariably acceptable, and often preferred, as payment. People often have calculators and know the latest exchange rates. If you take US dollar bills to Kenya, be sure they are less than five years old as they won’t be exchangeable in many places otherwise.
While most prices are given in Kenyan shillings or US dollars, the occasional use of euros or pounds sterling reflects the way hotels and tour operators price their services.
Credit and debit cards, and ATMs
The best way to carry your money is in the form of plastic.
Credit and debit cards are more secure than cash, can be used to withdraw cash from ATMs and increasingly to buy things. Visa and MasterCard are the most common, but Cirrus and Plus cards are also accepted at some ATMs. Also useful are pre-paid currency cards (also known as travel money cards or cash passports) affiliated with Visa and MasterCard, which can also be used to withdraw money at ATMs. As well as at banks, ATMs can also be found at petrol stations and shopping malls. On the street, always find one inside a secure booth or with a guard on duty. ATMs usually offer the best rate of exchange, but home banks charge a fee for withdrawing cash from a foreign ATM and there may be a daily limit.
Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted for tourist services such as upmarket hotels, curio shops and restaurants, flights, safaris and car rental. There’s usually a five-percent mark-up on top of the price for the cost of the transaction to the company. Most transactions use chip-and-PIN, but if you’re paying by using a manual machine, make sure you’ve filled in the leading digits with zeros and the voucher specifies the currency before you sign. If it doesn’t, it’s all too easy for the vendor to fill in a $, € or £ sign in front of the total after you’ve left.
Exchanging money
You can exchange hard currency in cash at banks and foreign exchange (“forex”) bureaus all over the country, and also at most large hotels, though for a substantially poorer rate. US dollars, British pounds and euros are always the most easily changed. Always check the commission and any charges, as they may vary slightly. Many banks and forex bureaus also give over-the-counter cash advances in Kenyan shillings (and in Nairobi or along parts of the coast, in US dollars or pounds) on MasterCard and Visa cards. Travellers’ cheques are not worth the trouble.
Banks are usually open Mon–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat 9–11am (some smaller branches are not open every Sat). Forex bureaus usually offer better rates of exchange than banks and are open longer hours (often on Sunday mornings too). Changing money on the street is illegal – ignore any offers as you will most likely be ripped off and run the risk of being arrested if caught. An exception is when entering or leaving Kenya by land from Ethiopia, Uganda or Tanzania, where changing each country’s currency to or from Kenyan shillings is deemed acceptable. But be careful with any transaction – always count notes very carefully before swapping, and if at all possible wait to get cash at an ATM.
Opening hours
Shops are generally open Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, with the smaller ones having a break for lunch. In parts of the coast, and especially Muslim areas like Lamu, shops are more likely to close for an afternoon siesta (2–4pm) but they will stay open later in the evening. Muslim-owned shops may also close on Fridays, and correspondingly open on Sundays. Large supermarkets have extended hours until at least 7pm every day, and big towns often have at least one 24-hour Nakumatt hypermarket. Small kiosk-type shops (dukas) can be open at almost any hour.
Tourism businesses such as travel agents, car rental firms and airline offices are usually open Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, plus Sat 9am–noon. Banks are open Mon–Fri 9am–3pm and most open Sat 9–11am, too, while forex bureaus stay open later and some are open on Sunday mornings as well. Museums and historical sites are open seven days a week, usually 8.30am–5.30pm; Museums run by National Museums of Kenya, such as the National Museum in Nairobi, Fort Jesus in Mombasa and Lamu Museum, are open daily 8.30am–6pm. Post offices open Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 9am–noon, though smaller branches will close for an hour over lunch. Most other offices are closed all weekend. Most petrol stations stay open late, and there are 24-hour ones on the major highways and in urban areas.
In national parks and reserves, gates are open from sunrise to sunset, and given that Kenya is on the equator, these times stay the same virtually all year round: 6am–7pm.
Phones and mobiles
The need for Kenya’s conventional landline telephone system, run by Telkom Kenya, is now virtually nil. The vast majority of adult Kenyans (a staggering estimated 90 percent) are mobile phone users, and while businesses still have landlines, they nearly always use an additional cell phone too. Traditional call boxes, where they still exist (even Kenyans have a giggle at the sight of these archaic contraptions), have either been decommissioned or are defunct. If you do need to find a working call box, your best bet will be a post office. Landline area codes are all three figures, comprising 0 plus two digits. The subscriber numbers are five, six or seven digits depending on area: Nairobi numbers have seven, while a small northern town may have only five.
Mobile phones
Most of the country has mobile (cell) phone coverage. The main exception is the far north, but reception can also be patchy in thinly populated rural areas further south and in the remoter parks and reserves.
Mobile phone services are provided by Safaricom (the biggest operator), and its rivals Airtel and Orange. All mobile phone numbers begin with a four-digit code starting 07, followed by a six-digit number.
Unless your mobile is very old, it is almost certain to work in Kenya, but very high charges make using it on roaming unattractive for anything but emergencies.
There are two easy options: either buy a cheap handset from any mobile phone shop, which will cost around $20, or buy a Kenyan pay-as-you-go SIM card and starter pack (around Ksh200) and temporarily replace the SIM card in your mobile. As well as standard mini-SIMs, the cut-down micro-SIMs for iPhones and other smart phones are widely available. Check with your home service provider that your phone is not locked to their network (unlocking, if necessary, can be done anywhere).
Once you have your Kenyan SIM installed (any phone shop, from the airport onwards, will sell you one and put it in your phone), you can buy airtime cards literally anywhere, rubbing a scratch number, which you use to key in the top-up. A Ksh1000 card will give you very low-price calls (as low as Ksh4 per minute and Ksh1 per text on the same network) and should last you for a short holiday.
For most short-term visitors to Kenya, it’s fairly immaterial whether you choose an Airtel, Orange or Safaricom SIM card. They continually outbid each other for value and flexibility. If, however, you’re travelling more widely in East Africa, you’ll find Airtel’s One Network service handy. It allows you to use the same SIM card throughout Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and several other countries, while topping up in the local currency.
International calls
To call Kenya from abroad, dial your country’s international access code followed by 254 for Kenya, then the Kenyan area code or mobile-phone code (omitting the initial 0), and then the number itself.
Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania have a special telephone code agreement, used just between them, which replaces their international access and country codes with a single three-digit code, t 005 for Kenya, t 006 for Uganda and t 007 for Tanzania. So, if you’re calling Kenya from Uganda or Tanzania, you dial t 005, then the Kenya area code (omitting the initial zero), then the number. Note, however, that on mobiles, no matter where you’re dialling from, the codes for Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda are the usual, international +254, +255 and +256.
To call out of Kenya, the international access code is 000, followed by the country code followed by the number, omitting any initial 0 (this includes calls to mobiles being used with foreign-registered SIM cards in Kenya).
Photography
Kenya is immensely photogenic, and with any kind of camera you’ll get beautiful pictures. But if you want good wildlife shots, you’ll need a camera with an optical magnification of at least 10x on a point-and-shoot camera or 400mm-equivalent on a DSLR. Such telephoto capabilities are essential if you want pictures of animals rather than savanna. Wildlife photography is largely about timing and patience. Keep your camera always to hand and, in a vehicle, always turn off the engine.
Keep your camera in a dust-proof bag. If it uses a rechargeable battery, take a spare – you will always run out of power at the critical moment if you don’t. Also take plenty of memory cards with you, or a separate storage device.
Though most people are tolerant of cameras, the superstition that photos capture part of the soul is still prevalent in some areas. When photographing local people always be sensitive and ask permission first; not to do so would be rude. If you don’t accept that some kind of interaction and exchange are warranted, you won’t get many pictures. The Maasai and Samburu, Kenya’s most colourful and photographed people, are usually prepared to do a deal (bargain over the price), and in some places you’ll even find professional posers making a living at the roadside. Other people may be happy to let you take their picture for free, but will certainly appreciate it if you take their name and address, and send a print when you get home, or email the shot to them.
Note that it’s always a bad idea to take pictures of anything that could be construed as strategic, including any military or police building, prisons, airports, harbours, bridges and the president or his entourage. The idea that your photos may show Kenya in a poor light is also common. The idea that your photos may show Kenya in a poor light is also common.