Getting around Jordan: Transportation Tips

Getting around Jordan isn’t complicated, but it does take a little planning. This is a country where distances are short but public transport options can be patchy, and where the road between Amman and Petra is a straight shot through the desert. Want to catch a minibus to Jerash? You’ll need patience and luck. Prefer freedom and flexibility? Rent a car and hit the King’s Highway — it’s one of the most scenic drives in the Middle East, winding past crusader castles, wadis, and ancient ruins.

Whether you're navigating downtown Amman’s traffic chaos or finding your way to Wadi Rum, this guide breaks down your options — so you can travel smart and make the most of every stop.

By bus and serveece (shared taxi)

Public transport in Jordan is more about improvisation than precision. The most common way to travel between cities is by minibus — usually 15- or 18-seaters that leave when they’re full, not when the clock says so. If you're lucky, you might catch a larger coach with air-conditioning, but outside of a few major routes, it’s mostly the little guys running the show.

• No schedules, just full seats. Timetables are rare, and buses won’t leave until every seat is taken. That can mean a quick hop or a long wait — especially on quieter routes.
• Know where to go. There’s no official info board. Locals know the system by word of mouth, so your best bet is to show up, ask around, and follow the crowd. Buses display their start and end points — in Arabic — just above the rear brake lights.
• Cheap and honest. Fares are low: JD1 for a short ride, JD1.50–2 for medium hauls like Amman to Jerash. Tourist routes like Petra to Aqaba might run JD5–7. There’s no haggling — ask the price and you’ll almost always get a straight answer.
• Keep it flexible. On some routes, miss the one daily bus and you’re stuck till tomorrow. Guides or hotel staff might help, but even they often don’t know the details. If you’re heading to off-grid towns, build in wiggle room.

For a touch more comfort (and slightly less uncertainty), hop on a JETT bus — Jordan Express Tourist Transport runs daily services between big destinations like Amman, Petra, and Aqaba. You can even book online. Other companies like Hijazi cover the Amman-Irbid route, mostly for university students, and a few others operate long-distance coaches here and there.

Ride like a local: Serveeces

Serveeces (pronounced “ser-VEES”) are shared taxis — white cars seating four to seven people — that work the same “leave when full” system. They’re a bit faster than minibuses, a bit pricier, and a lot more squashed if you end up in the middle seat. But because they fill quicker, you’ll often be on the road sooner.

• Serveeces run between cities and inside them. They’re everywhere.
• Luggage? Extra charge. Some drivers may ask for a little more if you're lugging big bags.
• Cultural cue: On shared rides, locals tend to sit men with men, women with women. Don’t take it personally if someone asks to swap seats — it's just how things roll.

If you're planning a trip to Jordan, this is one part of the adventure that requires patience and flexibility. Buses and serveeces may not run like clockwork, but they’ll get you where you need to go — eventually.

Hitchhiking in Jordan

Let’s be blunt: hitchhiking between major cities in Jordan is a waste of time. Try flagging a ride from Amman to Petra and you’ll likely spend hours (or days) baking on the roadside while drivers wonder why you didn’t just take the bus like everyone else.

But off the main highways? That’s a different story.

In remote areas — like the Eastern Desert, the southern stretches of the King’s Highway, or the dusty link road into Wadi Rum — locals still follow an unwritten rule: if there’s space in the car, they’ll stop. Villages are spread out, buses are irregular or nonexistent, and giving lifts is part of rural life. To signal you're looking for a ride, stick your arm out and flap your index finger loosely — it's the Jordanian hitchhiker's wave.

• Don’t expect a free ride. You should always offer money. Most drivers will refuse, but trying to hitch for free won’t win you any friends.
• Never hitch alone if you're a woman. That’s rule number one. Even as a pair, women should sit in the back and avoid sitting next to male drivers.
• Be smart, not naive. Jordan is generally safe, but don’t accept spontaneous invites if you're on your own. And if something doesn’t feel right, don’t get in.
• Pack water and a hat. Getting stranded under the desert sun without shade or hydration? That’s a much bigger risk than dodgy drivers.

Recent efforts have been made to improve public transport in cities like Amman, but rural areas haven’t caught up. If you’re heading into quieter corners of the country, hitchhiking might be your best bet — as long as you're prepared and respectful about how it works here.

Getting around Jordan by car

Driving in Jordan isn’t for the faint-hearted, but it’s far from chaos. Compared with Egypt or Lebanon, it’s a breeze. Compared with the West? Buckle up.

On the road

You drive on the right, and you always obey the police. Beyond that, rules are open to interpretation. Lane markings are more like suggestions. Overtaking can happen on either side, often with a quick honk. Pulling out into traffic without looking is normal, and right of way usually goes to the boldest driver — or the fastest.

• Use your horn. It’s a signal, not a sign of road rage. Out in the countryside, give a friendly honk to warn kids or animals you’re coming.
• Traffic lights matter. They’re enforced with cameras, and running a red gets you an instant fine.
• Roundabouts? Whoever’s moving fastest gets priority. Don’t expect logic.

Roads are generally good, but speed bumps, potholes, and surprise rumble strips keep things interesting — even on highways. The Desert Highway in particular is littered with bumps and rough patches, so keep your speed in check. Watch out for drifting sand in the south; hit a patch too fast and you’ll be off the road before you can blink.

Speed limits are posted often — 100-110km/h on highways, 90km/h on major roads, and as low as 40km/h in towns. Radar traps are everywhere. Get caught, and you’ll likely face an on-the-spot fine of JD20 or more (with a receipt).

• Signs are in Arabic and English. Big brown tourist signs point to major sights.
• Back roads? Ask locals. Google Maps won’t always save you.

Driving after dark is a gamble. Lighting is poor, and hazards — animals, unlit vehicles, mystery obstacles — become nearly invisible. It’s also common for oncoming cars to switch on high beams, not off. Whether that flash means “go ahead,” “get out of the way,” or just “hi,” you’ll have to guess.

You can legally drive on your home license, but an International Driving Permit with Arabic translation can help smooth things over at checkpoints or with rental companies.

Car rental

For flexibility and freedom, renting a car in Jordan is worth it — especially if you’re heading beyond Amman and Petra. The market’s big, and you’ll find everything from budget beaters to polished 4x4s.

• Reliable (in Abdoun, near 5th Circle) is a top local choice. Expect JD25–30 a day for a new car with air-con, full insurance, and unlimited mileage. They deliver anywhere in Amman and to the airport, 24/7.
• Cheaper deals (as low as JD15/day) are out there, but often mean older cars, no insurance, and sketchy backup.
• International agencies like Hertz, Avis, and Europcar have offices in major hubs, border crossings, and the Dead Sea — reliable, but pricier.

Standard cars are fine for most routes, but if you’re planning to explore remote ruins or desert terrain, rent a 4x4. These start around JD50/day, but don’t go off-road without a guide — and carry water in case you get stranded.

Fuel

All fuel in Jordan is unleaded — 90 octane (tisaeen) is standard, 95 (khamsa wa-tisaeen) costs more. Diesel exists but is hard to find. Stations usually have attendants who do the filling — just say “full” or hand over JD10 or JD20. Most only take cash.

Accidents and insurance

Despite the loose driving style, serious accidents are rare. But under Jordanian law, the driver is always at fault in any car-vs-pedestrian accident — even if someone falls off a roof onto your parked car. If livestock’s involved (and it often is), you’ll be expected to pay. A goat might cost JD100. A camel? JD1000. Eyes on the road.

If you crash a rental:

• Call the rental company first. A good one will call the police and pick you up.
• Don’t move the car after an accident.
• Call police yourself if needed (T911).
• Police and doctor reports are essential if you’re filing an insurance claim.

By train

Don’t count on taking the train in Jordan. There are no scheduled passenger services currently running. The once-famous Hejaz Railway, a narrow-gauge line that once connected Damascus to Amman and beyond into the desert, is mostly out of action.

These days, it’s more steam nostalgia than transport — occasional chartered specials for railway buffs or local family excursions are about all that’s left. You might stumble upon a one-off steam ride, but don’t plan your Jordan itinerary around it.

There was talk of launching a tourist service along the phosphate freight line from Aqaba to Wadi Rum, but so far, that’s just a pipe dream. For now, trains in Jordan are strictly a heritage thing.

By plane

Flying within Jordan isn’t common, but it is possible. Royal Jordanian runs the country’s only domestic route, with two or three daily flights between Amman (Queen Alia Airport) and Aqaba.

• Flight time is just over 30 minutes. Add check-in and ground transfers, and you’re city-center to city-center in about 90 minutes — much quicker than the four-plus hours it takes by road.
• Views from the air are a bonus — sit on the right heading south for sweeping panoramas over the Dead Sea, the Petra mountains, and the vast desert landscapes that surround some of the best places to visit in Jordan.

Fares aren’t outrageous, and as of 2023, Royal Jordanian has stepped up its game with more flexible booking and improved onboard safety measures. Still, if you’ve got time to spare and care about your carbon footprint, it’s worth considering whether that scenic overland drive might be the better call.

By bike

Cycling in Jordan can be a brilliant way to see the country — if you're up for the challenge. The roads cut through dramatic terrain, but you’ll be battling steep climbs, scorching heat, and drivers who mostly treat cyclists as moving speed bumps.

• Dress smart. In rural areas, skip the neon Lycra. Loose, modest clothing is a better bet if you're riding solo through conservative villages.
• Stay alert. Most drivers aren’t aggressive, just oblivious. And in remote areas, don’t be shocked if a group of kids thinks it’s funny to throw stones.

Despite all that, cycling here is gaining traction. There are more events each year, and infrastructure is slowly catching up.

• Bike Rush offers rentals.
• Cycling Jordan and the Amman Cycling Club run weekend rides and offer route advice, gear help, and local connections.
• Terhaal and Experience Jordan lead mountain-bike tours around Madaba, the Dead Sea, Petra, and Wadi Rum.

It’s not the easiest way to get around, but if you’re into active travel, pedalling through landscapes tied to some of the best things to do in Jordan — ancient ruins, desert trails, and sweeping canyons — makes for one hell of a ride.