Gion and around

Shijō-dōri runs west through the heart of Gion, crossing the Kamo-gawa into Kyoto’s main downtown district. One of its most distinctive landmarks is Minami-za (南座), a historic kabuki theater overlooking the river. Originally established in the early 17th century and last rebuilt in 1929, it hosts a major kabuki festival every December, featuring Japan’s most celebrated actors.

Kabuki has been part of Gion’s identity since the late 16th century, when a female troupe first performed religious dances along the riverbanks. Over time, it evolved into the all-male theater tradition known today, thriving alongside Kyoto’s geisha culture in the city’s famous pleasure quarters. Of these, Gion was the most renowned.

For a glimpse of this historic “floating world,” walk south along Hanamikōji-dōri, where many of the elegant wooden buildings still function as exclusive teahouses where geisha entertain guests. Visit after dark, when red lanterns glow outside their secretive entrances, or come in the early evening for a chance to spot geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha) arriving for their appointments.

Not sure how long to stay in Kyoto to soak in its traditional culture? Plan for at least a few days to experience both its historic sights and living traditions.

During April’s Miyako Odori (都をどり), local geisha give performances of traditional dance at the Gion Kōbu Kaburenjō (祇園甲部歌舞練場), a theatre near the south end of Hanamikoji-dōri. This is also the venue for a touristy display of traditional arts known as Gion Corner (ギオンコーナー). Though it’s far better to spend a little extra to see the real thing, this is an opportunity to see brief extracts of court dance, bunraku puppet theatre and the slapstick kyōgen.

Gion north of Shijō-dōri consists mainly of high-rise blocks packed with clubs, bars and restaurants. But walk up Kiritoshi, one block west of Hanamikoji-dōri, and you eventually emerge into another area of teahouses, known as Shinbashi (新橋). Although it only comprises two short streets, the row of slatted facades reflected in the willow-lined Shirakawa Canal makes a delightful scene, day or night.

Going to Kyoto? Prepare for your trip with our guide to the best places to stay in Kyoto.