Aizawl
One of India’s remotest state capitals, Aizawl (1250m), with the Tropic of Cancer passing straight through it, perches precariously on the steep slopes of a sharp ridge. Although the views are of hills rather than snowy mountains, it has something of the feel of a Himalayan hill station. There are few monuments or temples, but the markets are interesting and there are some extraordinary churches, including the imposing Solomon’s Temple, which looks a bit like a cardboard cut-out, at Chawlhhmun. Everything closes on Sunday, when many people go to church dressed in their best. Zarkawt is the downtown area, where Bara Bazaar is the city’s main attraction: everything from Mizo music to bespoke shoes can be bought here.
The Durtlang Hills immediately north of Aizawl, and Luangmual, 7km west of the centre, provide pleasant walking country – both are easy day-trips.
Bamboo, rats and revolution
Mizoram’s two main species of bamboo flower every 48–50 years, attracting hordes of rats that devour crops, leading to famine. The first time this happened, in 1959, the government was seriously unprepared, which led Laldenga to found the Mizo Famine Front (MFF) to combat famine. It transformed into the Mizo National Front (MNF), a guerrilla group fighting for secession. The government’s heavy-handed response in 1967 boosted support for the MNF who relied on essential Pakistani assistance, which came to an end with Bangladeshi independence. The MNF eventually came to the negotiating table and statehood was granted in 1986 in return for an end to the insurgency. Mizoram is now the most peaceful of the “seven sisters”. However, in 2007 the bamboo began to flower again, the rat population grew and crops were destroyed; thankfully, this time the famine was not as devastating.
Top inage: The Aizawl city - capital of Mizoram © Nomad1988/Shutterstock