Évian-Les-Bains
The most well-known French spa resort on Lake Geneva, Évian maintains a clinical orderliness that wouldn’t be out of place on the opposite side of the water. Newly renovated, the Thermes Evian Spa offers all manner of treatments, but most people come here just to wallow in the warming, Evian-sourced thermal waters; the entrance fee includes access to the various pools, sauna, jacuzzi, hamam and fitness centre. Just beyond the spa, and elegantly laid out with squares of immaculately mown grass, perfectly clipped hedges and colourful flowerbeds, the waterfront strip is the town’s focal point. Its main promenade is fronted by a quartet of fine belle époque buildings, not least the grand, glazed brick and stone Palais Lumière, built as a pump-room in 1902 and adorned with gorgeous stained-glass windows and Art Nouveau frescoes – today it’s a cultural centre, hosting regular exhibitions. Next door is the town hall, the former summer residence of celebrated photographer Antoine Lumière, while a little further along is the prepossessing theatre building which has been functioning as such since 1885. Completing this showy line-up of buildings, and which no self-respecting spa resort would be without, is the casino (1912), topped by a “Neo-Byzantine” dome and elegant scalloped arcade.
Yvoire
Occupying a picture-postcard setting 25km to the west of Évian is the absurdly pretty medieval village of Yvoire, where narrow cobbled lanes lined with artisan shops and chunky stone-built houses slope down to the water’s edge, and every street corner seemingly abounds with colourful flowers. Although the village heaves with day-trippers – notably Japanese – in the summer months, you can still find some peace and quiet. Today the most visible reminder of Yvoire’s medieval past is the old castle along with the two stone gateways, both dating from the fourteenth century.