Labasa and around
The hot and dusty market centre of LABASA on Vanua Levu’s north coast is Fiji’s largest town outside of Viti Levu but receives virtually no tourists. The administrative centre of Vanua Levu, it has a purposeful bustle during the day, but by sundown, with the departure of the last local bus, the streets become deserted. On the outskirts is the town’s lifeline, the Labasa Sugar Mill, which perpetually hisses, creaks and bellows out smoke during the sugar-crushing season between May and December. Labasa’s surrounding hilly countryside is the main attraction for visitors and exploring this area by open-sided bus offers great mountain vistas. Also nearby are two resorts with diving access to the fabulous, uncharted Great Sea Reef.
Rabi Island
Rabi Island, 66 square kilometres in size, is home to the displaced Banaban Islanders from faraway Kiribati in Micronesia. Their tiny five-square-kilometre original homeland, Banaba Island, was systematically stripped of its phosphate deposits by British mining interests between 1902 and 1942. Soon after, during World War II, the island was captured by the Japanese, who slaughtered many of the islanders. At the end of the war the British Government relocated the remaining Banabans to Rabi Island in Fiji which it had purchased shortly before the Japanese occupation. The islanders received formal Fijian citizenship in 2005, and today almost five thousand Banabans live on Rabi. Tabwewa, halfway along the north coast, is the largest village on the island.
Savusavu and around
SAVUSAVU, Vanua Levu’s main tourist centre, is a small one-street town squeezed between rolling hills and a silvery ocean. Sitting alongside a bay that was once a giant volcano, Savusavu is Fiji’s most popular anchorage for visiting yachts. With several excellent restaurants and bars, splendid walks in the Savusavu Hills and fabulous nearby snorkelling at Lesiaceva Point, the town makes for a pleasant short stay.
From Savusavu, the sedate Hibiscus Highway passes old coconut plantations, hugging the south coast of Vanua Levu, while to the north are two picturesque waterfalls hidden amongst tropical rainforests, one at the village of Vuadomo, the other at the Waisali Nature Reserve.
Sightseeing by local buses from Labasa
Hopping on and off Labasa’s charming open-sided buses is a great way to see the countryside and meet the locals The following routes are highly recommended, each departing hourly from Labasa bus stand from 6am to 6pm, with increased services during peak hours.
Labasa to Basoga or Vunivau (20min; F$1.20). After passing the sugar mill and turning left up Valebasoga Road, get off the bus at the brow of the hill before the Chinese Cemetery. Walk towards the telecommunication tower (15min), following the ridge for stunning mountain views. Head back down via the tower access road, past Indian houses to Bulileka Road (20min). From here, frequent buses head back into Labasa.
Labasa to Coqeloa (50min; F$1.60). This route passes the sugar mill and snake temple and travels through Indian sugarcane settlements around the Bucaisau River Valley. Plenty of dirt roads branch out from the valley, making tempting walking diversions amongst beautiful mountain scenery.