Renting a Car in Ecuador and the Galápagos
If you intend to zoom around the country in a short space of time, or want to get to really off-the-beaten-track destinations, renting a car is a worthwhile option. You will need to be at least 21 years old (extra charges are often payable if you are under 25) and have a major credit/debit card for the deposit. Theoretically, you only need your national licence to rent a vehicle, but you’re strongly advised to bring an international licence as well – the Ecuadorian police, who frequently stop drivers to check their documents, are often suspicious of unfamiliar foreign licences and much happier when dealing with international ones. The national speed limit is 100kmh on highways (or less if indicated), and usually around 50kmh in towns or urban areas. Note that there are some draconian penalties for minor motoring offences, such as not wearing your seat belt; driving the wrong way down a one-way street is supposedly punishable by a fourteen-day mandatory jail sentence.
Rental outlets, costs and vehicles
For convenience’s sake, you might want to arrange your car rental in advance through your nearest branch of an international rental company, but it nearly always works out cheaper to sort it out when you get there, typically at the airport in Guayaquil or Quito. Costs are comparable to Europe or North America: in general, expect to pay around $35 a day or $230 a week for a small hatchback, and from around $80 a day or $550 a week for a mid-sized 4WD, including insurance and IVA (tax) – always make sure you’re clear whether a price quoted includes insurance (generally around $5 a day), IVA and unlimited mileage. Check, too, what the excess is on the insurance (that is, the amount up to which you are liable in the event of an insurance claim). This is known as el deducible and is usually frighteningly high – around $1000 in the case of damage to the vehicle, and around $3000 for theft or “total destruction”, as the rental companies alarmingly put it. It might be a wise precaution to use agencies such as www.insurance4carhire.com, which provide year-long cover for rental vehicles, pay all excess costs and cover anyone named on the rental agreement.
When choosing which type of vehicle to rent, remember only a small portion of the country’s roads are paved, and those that are surfaced can be in an atrocious state of disrepair. Four-wheel-drive, or at least high clearance and sturdy tyres, definitely comes in handy on unpaved roads, especially in the rainy season, but isn’t necessary for the big cities and better-maintained parts of the road network. Air conditioning is another consideration for long journeys in the lowlands and Oriente.
On the road
Ecuadorian drivers tend to be undisciplined and sometimes downright dangerous; aggressive overtaking is particularly common, as is abruptly veering over to the wrong side of the road to avoid potholes. As long as you drive defensively and keep your wits about you, however, it’s perfectly possible to cover thousands of kilometres without running into problems. Never drive at night if you can avoid it, as this is when most accidents occur, in part due to the absence of decent road markings, lighting and the lack of signs alerting drivers to hazards. In addition, although ambushes against drivers are extremely rare, when they do happen it’s most often at night.
Never leave valuables in your car at any time, or your car on the street overnight, as it will almost certainly be broken into; try to stay in hotels with a garage, or else leave your vehicle overnight in a securely locked parqueadero.
In the event of an accident, you should try to come to an agreement with the other party without involving the police if you can. This may not be possible if it is serious, and the upshot often is that both parties are detained until one admits liability. Unsurprisingly, hit and runs are common in Ecuador.
Hitchhiking in Ecuador and the Galápagos
Hitching is not recommended as a safe way of getting about, but it’s widely practised by Ecuadorians, particularly in rural areas. For backpackers, the bus service is such that you’ll only really need to hitch in the remoter places – you’re most likely to get a ride in the back of a pick-up truck. The etiquette is to ask “¿Cuánto le debo?” (“How much do I owe you?”) at the end of the journey, at which point you may be asked to pay a small amount, rarely more than the bus fare would have been, or let off for free. If you’re worried about being overcharged, ask “¿Cuánto sería?” (“How much would it be?”) before climbing aboard.
Getting around via taxi in Ecuador and the Galápagos
Most towns in Ecuador have a fleet of yellow taxis – in rural areas, green-and-white camionetas (pick-up trucks) take their place. In tropical areas, you may also come across mototaxis – motorbikes with small trailers converted to take passengers, who sit on a couple of makeshift benches. Since 2014 it has been compulsory across Ecuador for taxi drivers to have a taximeter, though a small percentage are still without one. The new law has led to fares for some journeys going up and others going down, with the result that some passengers and drivers still prefer to negotiate a price. In Guayaquil, most taxi drivers still refuse to use the taximeter, even when they have one. The minimum fare is usually $1–2, depending on the size of the town or city, and is higher at night, with a standard short journey, outside Quito or Guayaquil, typically costing $1.50–4. Most drivers are honest, but where drivers refused to use the taximeter, the best way to avoid being ripped off is to ask locals what the standard fares are to various destinations. Always agree on the price with the driver beforehand, and don’t be afraid to haggle. Tipping isn’t necessary, but it’s common to round up fares.
Taxis are also sometimes the best way of getting to out-of-the-way places such as national parks or mountain refuges, particularly if you’re in a group and can share the cost. Hiring a taxi for the day costs from about $60. App-based taxi-services, including Uber, Cabify and Easy Taxi, are available in Quito, Cuenca, Guayaquil. They are easy to book and identify, plus they offer transparent fees and the ability to file a complaint. Never use an unmarked cab.
Ecuador and the Galápagos by boat
Unless you’re on a private boat transport to a smart jungle lodge, seats are invariably wooden and thoroughly uncomfortable. Bring something to sit on and keep food and water with you, as the bulk of your luggage will usually be put under wraps at the front of the boat.
The most likely place you’ll end up in a boat is in the Oriente, where the best of the jungle is often a boat ride away. On the coast, the coastal highway now runs the entire length of the Ecuadorian seaboard, meaning you’re less likely to need to travel by boat, but it’s still fun to tour through the mangroves around San Lorenzo or Muisne. A few communities in the northern lowlands are still only reachable by river boat.
A chartered boat (flete) is more expensive than going on a public one, though you can reduce costs by gathering a group; the fare is usually fixed for the journey regardless of the number of passengers. Travel around the Galápagos Islands is almost exclusively by boat.