Brief history of Phnom Pehn
In 1432, Phnom Penh began its first stint as a capital when King Ponhea Yat fled from Angkor and the invading Siamese. He set up a Royal Palace and founded five monasteries. Wat Botum, Wat Koh, Wat Langka, Wat Ounalom and Wat Phnom - all of which survive today.
19th century - The Vietnamese assumed control over Cambodia, and there were continued power struggles between the Thais and Vietnamese. In 1863, King Norodom signed a treaty for Cambodia to become a French protectorate. Hyun de Verneville started to create a chic colonial town, building roads, law courts, banks and schools.
1954 - Phnom Penh gained independence from the French, and an educated middle class began to gain prominence. Cafe society began to blossom, cinemas and theatres thrived.
1970 - Lon Nol’s forces fought a civil war against the Khmer Rouge. As the city came under siege, food became scarce.
1975 - In April 1975, the Khmer Rouge forces marched into Phnom Penh and instituted a brutal regime to eradicate all perceived opposition. The Khmer Rouge defined the darkest period in Phnom Penh’s history. They were led by French-educated Saloth Sar, subsequently known as Pol Pot. He ordered the mass extermination of intellectuals, teachers, writers, educated people and their families. Even wearing glasses was considered a crime. Soldiers ordered the rest of the population out of the capital to work as peasants on the land. The Khmer Rouge killed between one and three million people.
1979 - With Vietnamese entry into Phnom Penh both original inhabitants and new settlers began to arrive. The Khmer Rouge fled to the jungle near the Thai border.
1989 - The Vietnamese withdrew from Cambodia. The UN subsequently took charge. Later the country became flooded with highly paid UNTAC forces, and the city started to boom again. Hotels, restaurants and bars sprang up to keep the troops entertained.
Today the city is repairing the dereliction caused decades ago; roads are much improved, electricity is reliable, and the charming colonial buildings are being restored. In this Phnom Penh guide, learn more about the vibrant culture visitors can expect today.
Places to go in Phnom Penh
Riverside - Sisowath Quay and around
Sisowath Quay is a real tourist hub. Sisowath Quay runs north and south of the centre, and it is lined with tall palms on one side, and bars, cafés and restaurants on the other. It is always lively, and in the evening it is the city’s social centre. You’ll discover food vendors and an atmospheric night market at the northern end by the tourist docks. Here, numerous boat companies offer sunset cruises along the Tonle Sap, or boats can be rented along the shore.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
Set back from the riverbank on Sothearos Boulevard, stands the Royal Palace and adjacent Silver Pagoda. Arguably the most impressive of the city’s attractions, The Royal Palace is well worth a visit for its classic Khmer architecture, its ornate gilding and its tranquil French landscaped gardens. The Silver Pagoda is also well known for its elaborate silver-tiled floor and priceless Buddha statues.
Boeung Keng Kang (BKK)
Boeung Keng Kang, or BKK, is a neighbourhood that’s popular with ex-pats and it’s also home to an increasing number of stylish hotels, bars and restaurants. It’s located south of the Independence Monument. Here you’ll find embassies and UN and NGO offices.
Wat Botum Park and around
The peaceful Wat Botum Park gets its name from the adjacent temple. At the park, you’ll find the Cambodian-Vietnamese Friendship Monument, with massive sandstone figures of a Khmer woman holding a baby, flanked by two armed Vietnamese liberation soldiers. It commemorates the Vietnamese liberation of Phnom Penh from the Khmer Rouge in January 1979.
The French Quarter
During the colonial era, Wat Phnom was at the heart of the French Quarter, and its leafy boulevards were graced by several delightful colonial buildings. These included the main post office, the National Library, Raffles Hotel Le Royal and the rather grand train station. Many of these survive today, and the area is worth exploring to get a taste of their historic grandeur. In the northeast of the city, set back just a few hundred metres from the riverfront, the imposing white chedi of Wat Phnom sits atop the hill that gave the city its name. This spot draws crowds, especially at weekends.
Central Phnom Penh and Psar Thmei
The centre of Phnom Penh is home to the art-deco inspired Psar Thmei market. Browse the Central market for electronics, jewellery, clothing, souvenirs, and more. It’s also a short walking distance from the Sorya Mall which house many shops, a food court and Starbucks.
Top things to do in Phnom Penh
Here are some of the highlights and the top things to do in Phnom Penh:
- The Royal PalaceThe golden spires, landscaped gardens and Silver Pagoda make up the capital’s most appealing sight.
- The National MuseumSituated just north of the Royal Palace on Street 13, Its four galleries are set around a tranquil courtyard. The galleries shelter an impressive array of relics, art and sculpture. It covers Cambodian history from to the present day. A highlight includes a mythical sandstone bird that stands over two metres high.
- Toul Sleng Genocide MuseumThe Toul Svay Prey Secondary School in a quiet Phnom Penh neighbourhood was transformed into a prison and interrogation centre when the Khmer Rouge had their reign of terror. An estimated twenty thousand victims were imprisoned in Security Prison 21 or S21. If you visit, you will begin to get a scale of the suffering endured by the Cambodian people.
- Choeung EkChoeung Ek is one of many killing fields in Cambodia, and a visit here is a very sobering experience. The killing fields feature a memorial temple containing thousands of human skulls. It was here that the bodies of 8985 people, victims of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge were exhumed from 86 mass graves. The area is best visited with a guide.
- Wat PhnomWat Phnom is situated atop the city’s only hill at the northern end of Norodom Boulevard. It was founded by a local widow named Daun Penh in 1373. Today, many people come here to pray for good luck. The temple is open daily to foreign visitors from 8 am to 5 pm.
- The Central MarketThe airy and bright Central Market is also called Psar Thmei. You can expect to barter with savvy vendors here. You can find electronic goods, clothes, jewellery and more.
- The Russian MarketIt’s is called the Russian market because all of its goods used to come from Russia. The country provided aid to Cambodia during the Vietnamese occupation. This market remains the place to buy textiles, antiques, silver and even motorbike parts. At the south end of the market, you’ll find vendors selling silver jewellery, handicrafts and piles of multicoloured silks.
- Mekong CruiseBoats can be hired for a late afternoon cruise with their captain on the Mekong. You can sip on a beer and watch the sun come down behind the Royal Palace.
- Wat OunalomWat Ounalom is one of Phnom Penh’s oldest and most important pagodas - it dates back to the reign of Ponhea Yat in the fifteenth century. Within the chedi, there are four sanctuaries. The one facing east has a fine bronze Buddha.
Accommodation in Phnom Penh
If you’re considering where to stay in Phnom Penh, you’ll find a range of accommodation to suit all budgets and tastes. You can choose from budget, mid-range and luxury options.
At the luxury end you could opt to stay in the historic Raffles Hotel Le Royal, rooms are restored to reflect a blend of Art Deco, Khmer and French colonial architecture. There are many choices of where to stay in Phnom Penh, including a range of charming accommodation on the Sisowath Quay. If you stay here, you’ll be just a short stroll from the Royal Palace and many other attractions. If you are looking for a backpacker vibe, you can find it in central Phnom Penh and the BKK neighbourhood.
Backpackers could try a dorm at the Happy Backpackers starting from as little as five US dollars per night. In Boeung Keng Kang you’ll find the flashpacker hostel Mad Monkey. It has a reputation for a party pool, chill out areas and lively bar and restaurant. BKK is also a good choice for stylish bars and restaurants, and it’s nearby the independence monument.