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written by
Sorrel Moseley-Williams
updated 09.08.2024
One of South America’s most cosmopolitan and culturally rich cities, Buenos Aires sits on the western bank of the River Plate, a 78-square-mile block divided into 48 barrios or neighbourhoods. The introduction of Metrobus bus and cycle lanes (including free bike hire) has helped to ease congestion, while love has been showered over the city's green spaces. Here you;ll find wrought-iron balconies living harmoniously alongside modern apartment blocks, red-brick warehouses and a mix of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Brutalist styles. BA is a big city, and deciding which barrio to base yourself is an important consideration. To help you decide, we’ve put together this area-by-area guide on where to stay in Buenos Aires.
The political and historical heart of Buenos Aires, Microcentro comes alive during the week thanks to thousands of office workers on the nine-to-five beat; come evenings and weekends, the buzz dies down. Plaza de Mayo square is the ideal starting point, its four streets lined with key sights such as Casa Rosada (home to Argentina's president), the Metropolitan Cathedral – Pope Francis's former parish and the Cabildo (Town Hall).
It’s also home to cheesy Calle Florida, packed with hawkers and informal money exchange touts. There are still a couple of gems to be found here – the time warp bar notable Florida Garden, the Galerías Pacifico shopping mall with its ceiling frescoes and the Centro Cultural Borges are all worth a look.
For a boutique stay: Palacio Paz Boutique Hotel
This elegant hotel is housed in a beautifully restored historic building. It offers luxurious rooms with period details, personalized service, and a prime location near major attractions. Perfect for those seeking a unique, upscale experience in the heart of Buenos Aires.
For business travelers: Pestana Buenos Aires
This modern hotel caters to business needs with its well-equipped meeting rooms and business center. Its central location, comfortable accommodations, and on-site restaurant make it convenient for work trips. The rooftop pool is a great place to unwind after a busy day.
For luxury seekers: NH Collection Buenos Aires Lancaster
This upscale hotel provides a sophisticated stay with its stylish rooms, gourmet restaurant, and attentive service. Its prime location on Avenida Córdoba offers easy access to shopping and cultural sites. Another bonus is the fitness center and sauna.
The barrio of choice for Argentina’s wealthy upper class (both living and resting in peace), Recoleta is best known for its architecturally magnificent cemetery crammed with lavish mausoleums (including Eva Perón’s relatively modest final quarters), posh Avenida Alvear lined with swanky boutiques and the city’s most expensive properties and the colonial-style Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar church.
It’s not all about splashing the cash, however. Stop by the recently renovated Centro Cultural de Recoleta for a culture fix or the Bellas Artes Museum for Argentina's best fine arts collection.
For a boutique stay: ARC Recoleta Boutique Hotel & Spa
This stylish hotel offers a blend of modern design and classic elegance. With its luxurious spa, rooftop terrace, and personalized service, it provides a tranquil retreat in the heart of Recoleta's upscale neighborhood.
For luxury seekers: CasaSur Recoleta
This upscale hotel boasts sophisticated rooms, a gourmet restaurant, and a prime location near Recoleta Cemetery. Its attention to detail, from custom furnishings to high-end amenities, caters to discerning travelers seeking a lavish stay.
For budget-conscious travelers: A Hotel
This affordable option offers clean, comfortable rooms in a great location. While amenities are basic, its proximity to major attractions and reasonable prices make it an excellent choice for those looking to save on accommodations without sacrificing location.
Leading from Plaza de Mayo is Avenida de Mayo a tree-lined boulevard packed with architectural gems that leads you to Argentina’s political heart, Congreso. As you wander north, landmarks include the Casa de la Cultura, which offers free tours, Café Tortoni (prepare to queue for coffee and churros) as well as the Museo Mundial de Tango and the marvelous, eclectic, Palacio Barolo (book a private tour to see inside). The avenue ends at Plaza del Congreso, dominated by the Greco-Roman style Congreso Nacional (and possibly get caught up in a demonstration, a feature of life in BA).
For a boutique stay: DEL900 Hotel Boutique
This charming hotel occupies a restored Art Nouveau building, offering a unique blend of historical elegance and modern comfort. Its individually decorated rooms, personalized service, and intimate atmosphere provide a distinctive stay in the Congresso area.
For business travelers: Huinid Obelisco Hotel
This modern hotel caters to corporate guests with its well-equipped business center and meeting rooms. Its central location near government buildings, comfortable accommodations, and on-site restaurant make it ideal for work-related stays.
For budget travelers: Hotel UOM Buenos Aires
This no-frills hotel offers clean, basic rooms at affordable rates. Its location near public transportation and major attractions makes it a practical choice for budget-conscious travelers who prioritize exploring the city over luxurious accommodations.
Buenos Aires’ bohemian heart is firmly ensconced in San Telmo where faded grandeur and crumbling façades meet cobbled lanes and street art; it’s a joy for art lovers and architecture fans hunting down Instagrammable images such as Casa Mínima, the narrowest house in the city, former tobacco factory turned modern art museum (MAMBA) and spontaneous tango dancers hot footing it around Plaza Dorrego.
Stop by indoor market Mercado de San Telmo for a weird and wonderful mix of hip dining spots, butchers and antiques sellers during the week; on Sundays, Plaza Dorrego makes way for dozens of antiques stands, Calle Defensa fanning out from this focal point to be taken over by artisans in both directions. If you're wondering where to stay in Buenos Aires and you have a creative bent, San Telmo is your place.
For a boutique stay: L'Adresse Hôtel Boutique
This charming boutique hotel offers elegant rooms in a renovated 1920s townhouse. Enjoy personalized service, stylish decor, and a rooftop terrace with city views in the heart of San Telmo.
For budget-friendly comfort: Ker San Telmo Hotel
Ker San Telmo provides affordable accommodation without sacrificing quality. Modern rooms, a fitness center, and a convenient location make it ideal for travelers seeking value in this historic neighborhood.
For upscale amenities: Anselmo Buenos Aires
Experience luxury in a beautifully restored mansion. This Hilton property features spacious rooms, a gourmet restaurant, and excellent service, all while maintaining the area's historic charm and character.
Buenos Aires’ dining and nightlife hub, Palermo is also its largest barrio, divided up into unofficial areas such as Hollywood, Soho and Botánico. It’s also the greenest, home to Parque Tres de Febrero, Japanese Gardens, Carlos Thays Botanical Gardens and Plaza Alemania.
Shopaholics adores Soho’s cute boutiques and weekend street markets at Plazoleta Cortazar and Plaza Armenia, while those after a bite to eat – followed up by bar or pub crawling then sweating it all off in a nightclub – go out in Hollywood.
For a boutique stay: Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa
This elegant boutique hotel offers a tranquil retreat in vibrant Palermo. Enjoy personalized service, a relaxing spa, and beautifully decorated rooms in a renovated mansion with a lovely garden.
For urban chic: H5063
H5063 offers a sleek, minimalist experience in the heart of Palermo. With its modern rooms, trendy bar, and prime location near restaurants and shops, it's ideal for those seeking a hip, cosmopolitan stay.
For a home-away-from-home: Home Hotel
Hotel Home provides a cozy, intimate atmosphere in Palermo Hollywood. With its lush garden, outdoor pool, and individually decorated rooms, it offers a peaceful oasis amidst the neighborhood's vibrant scene.
Abandoned for decades, Buenos Aires’s docklands – where converted red-brick warehouses and high rise apartment blocks converge – were regenerated in the 1990s, offering up an unexpectedly shiny side to the city. Traverse the trails and grasslands at the Reserva Ecológica nature reserve, step aboard the two museum ships ARA Presidente Sarmiento and ARA Uruguay, or check out exhibits at the Faena Arts Center and Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat.
For a boutique stay: Tanguero Hotel Boutique Antique
This charming boutique hotel captures the essence of Buenos Aires with its tango-inspired décor. Enjoy personalized service, uniquely themed rooms, and easy access to Puerto Madero's waterfront attractions.
For budget-friendly comfort: Believe Madero Hotel
Believe Madero offers modern accommodations at reasonable prices. With clean, comfortable rooms and a convenient location, it's an excellent choice for travelers looking to explore Puerto Madero without breaking the bank.
For luxury and style: SLS Buenos Aires Puerto Madero
Experience upscale living in this sleek, design-forward hotel. SLS Buenos Aires features stunning views, gourmet dining options, a rooftop pool, and lavish rooms, perfect for those seeking a high-end stay in Puerto Madero.
If you want to experience Buenos Aires like a local, Villa Crespo is the neighborhood to stay in. It's a charming area just west of Palermo, known for its rich history, diverse community, and growing arts scene. Here, you can really get a feel for the authentic side of the city.
Some must-see spots include the Carlos Gardel House Museum, dedicated to the famous tango singer, and the Mercado de Pulgas, a huge flea market where you can find antiques and unique souvenirs. Villa Crespo is also dotted with small art galleries and cool street art installations.
The vibe in Villa Crespo is laid-back and unpretentious. Unlike the more touristy areas of Buenos Aires, this neighborhood has a relaxed, residential feel. And while you’re there, be sure to stop by Malvón, a cozy café known for its brunch and homemade pastries.
Best for families: Miliño Apart Hotel
This spacious apart-hotel offers comfortable suites with kitchenettes, perfect for families. Its central location provides easy access to parks, restaurants, and public transportation.
Best for budget travelers: Acevedo 716
This cozy guesthouse provides affordable rooms in a charming, renovated house. Its communal kitchen and lounge areas encourage socializing with other travelers. Located near cafes and boutiques, it's ideal for those seeking a local experience without breaking the bank.
written by
Sorrel Moseley-Williams
updated 09.08.2024
Sorrel is a British freelance journalist and sommelier based in Argentina since 2006 and contributes to Decanter, Monocle, Condé Nast Traveller, American Way, N by Norwegian, Wine Enthusiast, Atlas of the Future and The Guardian among others. She is the author of ‘Mil’ (Catapulta, 2021), Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez’s next book about his Andean restaurant. She covers travel, food and wine in Latin America during Argentina's seven-month lockdown, she created Dill & Tonic, an RTD G&T.
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