The Royal Palace, Palacios Nazaríes, the pride of the complex, is no ordinary ruin. As you stroll from chambers to fountained courtyards, through narrow corridors and under glorious arches, your eyes are drawn to the rich detail that – incredibly – hasn’t been washed away over the centuries, despite periods of disastrously careless occupiers, such as Napoleon’s forces.
Once you’ve seen the palace, the grounds of the Generalife gardens are a relaxing place for a shaded break, before heading up to the ramparts of the Alcazaba, the oldest and most ruined part of the complex, and from where the views down over town are spectacular.
Back in town, after you’ve rested your legs, take a walk through the steep, winding alleys of the old Moorish neighbourhood and UNESCO World Heritage site, the Albaicín. While half the fun is getting lost in these maze-like streets, make sure you don’t miss the Mirador (viewpoint) at Plaza de San Nicolas.
Not far from the foot of the Albaicín is the city’s Catholic relic, the vast Catedral de Granada, first built in 1583 and a gothic masterpiece. Its impressive exterior has a dark, foreboding feel, while the marble-floored interior is light, bright and extravagant, with no shortage of gold statues and ornaments.
Where can I get good tapas?
Eating in Granada is an experience you’ll find in few other places. The majority of tapas bars will provide customers with free small plates with every drink ordered. The portion sizes and quality of the food varies wildly, so it’s a very good idea to know where you want to go before heading out.
The centre of town is best for tapas. A good place to start is Los Diamantes, by Plaza Nueva, an upmarket seafood bar where quality wines are paired with free tapas of fried anchovies (boquerones fritos).
Cerveceria la Riviera, down the road from the cathedral, is cheap and cheerful, always buzzing, and they serve very generous tapas portions. You can even select the free tapas from a menu with a dozen or so options – try the fried octopus tentacles (patas de pulpo) or chorizo in wine (chorizo picante al vino).
Russian-naval-themed tapas and sushi bar Potemkin, on Placeta Hospicio Viejo, serves delightful free tapas such as spicy squid on thinly sliced and delicately flavoured potato slices, and nearby Los Altramuces, on leafy Campo de Principe, is a traditional, low-key family-run bar, with a warm welcome and hearty free tapas such as chicken and tomato stew.