When should I go?
Dharamsala has the reputation as the second wettest place in India so choose your time wisely. The autumn months, before the mercury drops but while the days are dry and sunny, are in many ways the best time to visit, although people do come year round. The busiest time is in the late spring and early summer, when hordes escape the pre-monsoon heat on the plains, while the winter is extremely cold and late summer can be very rainy.
Where can I do some soul searching?
Unsurprisingly, as the seat of one of the world's greatest living spiritual leaders, McLeod Ganj is well established as a major centre for meditation, yoga and other esoteric retreats. Both Buddhist and Hindu traditions are amply represented, so you can choose between a variety of courses of differing lengths, in such disciplines as Hindu Vipassana or Tibetan Buddhist meditation.
If you have limited time or just want to dip your toes in these waters, several centres such as Tibet World offer drop-in sessions lasting as little as one hour.
The significance of the religious centres is far more important than the magnificence of any particular structures, although there are some places of worship that are well worth a visit, even the squat St John in the Wilderness church.
The most obvious place to start, however, is the red and yellow Buddhist temple that stands just behind the tiny main square and acts as the fulcrum for the two tightly parallel bazaar streets that run down from it. It is traditional to turn the many prayer wheels that surround it, always in a clockwise direction.
The other main places to see are the Tsug Lakhang temple and Namgyal monastery, both close to the Dalai Lama's residence.
The residence is not open to the public and private audiences with His Holiness are exceptionally rare and require much advance planning. But it is worth checking out whether he is giving a public address while you are in town.
I hear it’s also a great place to wind down?
McLeod Ganj is not only about exercising your legs or cleansing your chakras either. The town is an extremely laidback place just to unwind, meet other travellers, eat well and engage in some shopping therapy.
Among the authentic souvenirs you can pick up here are beautifully painted or embroidered thangkas, the vivid wall hangings of the Buddha that you see in all the monasteries. It is also possible to witness these works of art being created.
The myriad stalls that line the main bazaar area are full or ornaments, jewellery and other tempting trinkets, while several shops stock an impressive range of perfumes and oils of all descriptions.