An LGBTQ+ guide to Stockholm

Stockholm prides itself on being the world’s most Open City and a particularly welcoming destination for LGBTQ+ people and their families. Sweden has long been ahead of the rest of the world when it comes to equal rights — it was one of the first countries to decriminalise homosexuality in 1944. Sadly though, while identifying as queer was no longer a crime, it was still classed as an illness; so in 1979, a wave of Swedes called into work sick with an acute case of ‘gayness’. Within a few months of the protest, Sweden became the first country in Europe to remove the classification.

The country and its capital remain gloriously gay to this day; what else would you expect from a country that has won the Eurovision song contest no less than seven times? Seriously chic Stockholm is a truly year-round destination for LGBTQ+ visitors, but May 2024 may be the best time of all to make a trip. 

Sweden will be hosting the contest in Malmö, and the capital will throw its doors wide open in celebration of this chaotically camp compendium of queer culture. So, other than donning your most fabulous outfit, what should you do on your visit to the city of Vasa Kings and Dancing Queens?

Where to eat

Stockholm is known for its culinary scene — from Michelin-starred restaurants to cozy local cafes. You won't have to struggle to find a great place to grab a bite to eat during your trip.

The Hills in Götgatsbacken

The Hills is an LGBTQ+-owned brasserie and trendy Stockholm hotspot in the lively neighbourhood of Götgatsbacken. It serves French food with Scandinavian influences; the absolute stand-out dish from the menu is the lamb, which is nothing short of transcendent. 

There’s also a great wine list that features organic wines from all over the world and a wide-ranging cocktail menu. The interior is the work of Swedish designer Jonas Bohlin – and the toilets are an experience in themselves. Look out for the golden phallus hanging over one of the toilets, and be careful not to jump as a blank-faced mannequin stares out at you from the kitchen by the bathroom door.

Nationalmuseum Restaurang in Norrmalm

An eminent gallery of fine art might not be the first place that would spring to mind when thinking about grabbing a meal, but perhaps it should be! The Nationalmuseum’s restaurant was added in 2018 with the idea that the dishes should also be as much works of art as the paintings hanging on the walls. 

The menu is made up of mouthwatering modern dishes containing all-Swedish ingredients – nothing is imported. And the food is only the beginning; everything in the restaurant has been designed with incredible care and attention. 

The result being that diners feel totally relaxed and at ease. Eating here feels if you’re lounging in the living room of an old friend, even though, in fact, you’re currently sat under majestic vaulted ceilings.

Where to drink

More importantly — where to get a drink? Whether you're in the mood for craft cocktails, local beers, or fine wines, there are plenty of trendy and queer places to explore in Stockholm. 

Chokladkoppen

Chokladkoppen is a fabulous, cosy café and queer hotspot overlooking Gamla Stan’s main square. It specialises in white chocolate cheesecake and blueberry pie, and is famous for its legendarily huge cinnamon buns and hot chocolate. This is a proudly queer-run spot, and was the first place in Stockholm to fly the rainbow flag in 1997. It’s still cheerfully decked out in them today!

Mälarpaviljongen

This ravishingly verdant waterside oasis is absolutely not to be missed. Mälarpaviljongen is an LGBTQ+-owned, summer-only restaurant and bar. It is perched on a floating pontoon strung with colourful fairylights and blooming flowers with a sensational view of the waters of Riddarfjärden. 

Their house rosé is to die for. What’s more — a portion of the price of every glass or bottle goes to the Rainbow Foundation, a charity that supports persecuted queer people. If you’re down for a dance, make a beeline for the high-spirited bar that plays brilliant cheesy tunes. 

The Blue Oyster

The Blue Oyster is a famous Stockholm gay club. The vibe starts off relaxed, with plenty of comfy chairs earlier in the evening and outdoor seating in summer. It graduates to upbeat and lively as night falls, then to a vibey club atmosphere right into the small wee hours, with live DJs playing mostly pop and dance tracks. Come for cocktails, drag queens, drag bingo and an all-round fun night out.

Planning a trip this spring? See our guide to the best LGBTQ+ holiday destinations.

Where to stay

Something great about Stockholm is that there is an accomodation to suit every taste. This city is full of luxury hotels, charming boutique guesthouses, and budget-friendly hostels. Here's our pick of where to stay:

Miss Clara

Miss Clara is a marvellous choice for any queer traveller to Stockholm. Located in the thoroughly contemporary Norrmalm district and housed in a stunning Art Nouveau building, the hotel was a girls’ school until 1939. In fact, the hotel is named after the school’s most influential headmistress! 

The hotel features spacious rooms with dark parquet floors, high ceilings, muted colour palettes and tall windows that let the light pour in (oh, the Scandi glamour!). There are also incredibly comfortable beds, supremely soft linens, and the deepest bathtubs you’ve ever experienced. The staff are super friendly and the buffet breakfast is top-notch. Added to this, you’ll also find a 24-hour sauna and a fantastic bar; really, what more could you ask for?

Hotel Skeppsholmen

Set on the peaceful island of Skeppsholmen and situated right by the water’s edge, this lovely hotel is housed in a gorgeous government-listed yellow building that dates back to 1699. Originally serving as the naval barracks for the Royal Marines, Hotel Skeppsholmen is today a luxury, eco-friendly, LGBTQ+-run affair. This is the perfect spot for travellers looking to add a little wholesome peace to their trip. 

Think light, airy rooms with breath-taking sea views and a first rate restaurant serving Swedish specialities (meatballs with lingonberry jam, anyone?). It’s even home to Sweden’s first tennis court, which you are welcome to make use of — if you have any energy left over after all that dancing…

Hotel Kung Carl

Family-run Hotel Kung Carl claims to be the oldest hotel in Stockholm (it will celebrate its 157th anniversary in 2024) and is also one of the most central. It’s situated right on Stureplan, an upmarket area known for its designer shops, swanky restaurants, and animated nightlife. Greta Garbo is known to have stayed at Kung Carl several times. 

Likewise, it is rumoured that Selma Lagerlöf, the first woman to be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature, put the finishing touches to one of her novels here – so you’re in the company of artists, darling! Each room is individually and exquisitely designed, with interiors varying from the traditional to the outrageously camp. 

Those with a sweet tooth should check out the ice cream room, which comes with a hearty supply of the stuff for the duration of your stay (naturally). There’s also a fantastic French bistro, as well as two bars and a jazz club that host live music and DJs, as well drag bingo and stand-up comedy.

If you're planning your trip to Sweden, you won't want to miss our Rough Guide to Top LGBTQ+ Friendly Places in Europe. This picture-packed coffee-table book outlines our top 20 destinations for LGBTQ+ travellers. 

Where to watch Eurovision 2024?

Unsurprisingly, Stockholm offers plenty of places to gather together and watch the Eurovision Finale in public. Slaktkyrkan is a live music venue and nightclub just south of the city that usually hosts a screening of the contest, followed by a night of celebrations and live DJs. There’s also SPACE, a queer-friendly gaming centre, which often hosts a huge free party on the big night. 

An unexpectedly fun place to see the show is the Hard Rock Café, which goes all-out with decorations and sing-alongs. Just don’t expect to be able to get anything to eat, as the place will be packed! 

Finally, if the weather holds out and you don’t mind standing, there is likely to be a huge screen showing the event in Stureplan (a well known public square of Stockholm). There’s sure to be dancing here until the sun comes up.

Planning your trip 

If you're eager to start planning, check out our new Pocket Rough Guide to Stockholm (published March 2024). Packed with recommendations and insider tips, this pocket-sized guidebook covers everything from must-see attractions to the city's coolest hidden treasures.