I look around the room. The rusting jaws of a 19th-century Serbian wolf trap yawn menacingly on a wooden dresser. Disembodied plastic hands lie limply on a red velvet chair. Ancient demonological texts, stacked precariously on tabletops, look like they could crumble to dust with the slightest touch. Jacques points one of them out. “I paid €4; it’s worth €4,000,” he says. “I buy all my books at the Montreuil flea market. They don’t know the value of what they’re selling.”
Spiritual healing at the Vampire Museum
Jacques picks up a cross-section of a gnarled tree trunk, which he claims is imbued with healing powers. In the middle, at his urging, I can make out a vague likeness of a woman’s profile, wearing a Puritan-style coif. If I’m honest, it’s all a bit Jesus-in-a-slice-of-toast. “They cut this tree down five years ago. It was an awesome tree that had grown over a tomb in Père Lachaise Cemetery,” he explains. “I had two Sioux tribesmen come to visit me – two witchdoctors. One of them had a bad leg; he couldn’t walk. I gave him a piece of the bark of the tree, and said ‘Let’s go have a coffee.’ One hour later, the pain disappeared. So this tree does have something.”
Père Lachaise – resting place of Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde and countless other luminaries – is one of Jacques’ favourite haunts, and the venue for many of his guided walks on the esoteric history of Paris. “I spend all week in the Père Lachaise. Yesterday I did the witch craze – the first and last witch burned in France were burned in Paris. Tonight I’m doing Satan and the cult of the devil in Romantic literature from the 19th century.”
How to explain Paris’ connection with the mysterious and the macabre? Maybe, Jacques suggests, it’s indicative of something in the French character – particularly when it comes to vampires. “French is the only language where ‘I am bitten’ means ‘I am in love’. What’s the strongest verb in English when you don’t like something? Hate? Detest? Loathe? In France when you don’t like someone you simply say ‘I will never bite you.’ Deep inside, we are very romantic people.”
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