Like Kenya itself, the capital is a place of absolute contrast. It’s hard to believe that just a short drive from Nairobi’s smart central business district, with its glitzy malls and fine dining, lies Kibera slum, sprawling endlessly around the outskirts of the city.
But I wasn’t in Kenya to experience Nairobi’s diversity. After a few days I caught a bus north in search of Kenya’s quieter corners and the forgotten tribes that inhabit them. In Samburu territory I stumbled across the annual Maralal camel derby, but it wasn’t until I pushed further north, towards Lake Turkana, hitching rides on whatever transport headed that way, that I truly felt I’d entered another world, harsh, remote and unforgiving.
Finally leaving the lake and its residents behind me I set off on my toughest journey, in search of the infamous Pokot tribe. They were tricky to reach, but once there I was treated to days of kind hospitality, before heading back through Nairobi and onwards to the coastal town of Lamu for some well-deserved rest – and the day of Eid dhow race.