How I spent 14 days in Vietnam

Given that my very first trip to Vietnam was limited to a couple of weeks, it’s fair to say it took some planning. But while my time was restricted, I was determined to veer off the tourist trail to experience the real Vietnam, insofar as that’s possible in two weeks. So, here’s how I made the most of my fourteen days in Vietnam — an itinerary that inspired me to return for longer at the earliest opportunity.

On day 1 and 2 I travelled from Hanoi to Ninh Binh

After arriving in Hanoi — Vietnam’s high-octane capital — I had time to wander the city and try some incredible food (bun cha, barbecued pork with rice vermicelli, came out top) before travelling to Ninh Binh on day two. 

Thanks to its incredible mix of majestic natural landscapes and temples, Ninh Binh had been on my travel wish-list since forever. Happily, the reality lived up to my (very) high hopes.

En route (Ninh Binh is around 100km south of Hanoi), I stopped off in Hoa Lu. Capital of Vietnam back in the 10th-century, it's easy to see why this is often referred to as Vietnam's inland Halong Bay.

I spent my first day in Ninh Binh at the most celebrated natural attraction around these parts. Namely, the waters of Trang An. 

The otherworldly landscapes of valleys, rivers and soaring forested mountains really set the tone for the rest of trip, especially in the light of what I had planned for the third day of my trip…

Planning your own trip to Vietnam? Keep reading, and arm yourselves with our guide to the best Vietnam itineraries.

I explored Tam Coc on day 3

I decided to stay in Ning Binh for the third day. The scenery is so amazing that I wanted to experience more!

The day before, I cruised the waters of Trang An, the less touristy of the two. Two indeed, because in addition to Trang An you can also go to Tam Coc. This is closer to the tourism hub and is the quicker, more budget-friendly option. 

Although it was slightly more busy, the natural wonders of Tam Coc made it all worth it. 

If you have time to spare, be sure to visit the Hang Mua Caves. The caves are not very spectacular, but the view point is even more so!

First-timer? Read our tips for traveling in Vietnam.

Day 4 and 5 I devoted to beautiful Ba Be

After my trek, I returned to Ninh Binh for the night before moving to Ba Be. Located in the centre of northern Vietnam, near the border with China, Ba Be (“Three Seas”) National Park was a hands-down highlight of my 14 days in Vietnam, which is really saying something.

Home to truly inspiring scenery — Vietnam’s largest natural freshwater lake, wild waterfalls and cathedral-like limestone caves — along with incredible biodiversity and indigenous cultures, I really didn’t want to leave. 

To max out my time here, I took a boat trip across the Nang River to Puong Grotto, with a wonderful detour to Dau Dang waterfall en route.

In the market for natural magic? Discover the most beautiful places in Vietnam, as voted by Rough Guides readers, and browse our customisable Wonders of Vietnam itinerary. 

I toured Cao Bang's cultural sites on day 6 

After bedding down in Ba Be, I transferred to Cao Bang first thing the next morning. 

Though more of a gateway to nearby natural and historic attractions than a longer-stay-base kind of place, I still wanted to see some of the city during my short visit, so I pre-booked a tour to make the most of my time here.

Among its highlights, I saw Ho Chi Minh’s hideout during the revolutionary period — Coc Bo Cave. I also spent time in Cao Bang Museum, which is located at the entrance to the cave area.

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Day 7 I was wowed by Ban Gioc Waterfalls 

After soaking up some of the city, the next stage of my 14 days in Vietnam saw me get back to nature with a morning trip to Nguom Cave.

Located in the Trung Khanh District of Vietnam’s Cao Bang Province, it took around two hours to reach it from Cao Bang city. While I hadn’t included Nguom in the first incarnation of my itinerary, I was very glad it made the final cut. 

Extending for several kilometres, its mighty limestone formations, underground rivers, and impressive stalactites and stalagmites are easily — and rewardingly — explored on well-lit pathways.

Come the afternoon, I visited nearby Ban Gioc Waterfalls. Over 300 metres wide, and boasting multiple cascades, it really is a sight to behold, best experienced on a rafting trip that’ll take you up close, within spraying-distance of the magical flows.

I took on the Ma Pi Leng Pass day 8 

After bedding down in Bao Lac, I rose early to travel onto Meo Vac. It’s an epic, winding route I’d read a lot about before travelling, thanks to it playing host to one of the most breath-taking mountain passes in Vietnam. Namely, the Ma Pi Leng Pass.

While travelling this route by motorbike has reached legendary status, I opted for the less challenging option of sharing a taxi with a few fellow travellers. After driving alongside the Gam River for an hour or so, we began our snaky ascent.

On seeing the gorges and emerald-green waters of the Nho Que River, I really wished I’d factored in time to stop off, but we had to press on.

As for the “main event”, it’s fair to say the Ma Pi Leng Pass lives up to its reputation. Stretching for about 20km, its panoramic views of the Nho Que River and surrounding karst mountains is something else.

Going it alone? Read our guide to backpacking Vietnam.

Day 9 I added Ha Giang to my 14 day Vietnam itinerary

For the next stage of my trip, I decided to devote time to exploring a few villages and attractions on the way from Meo Cac to Ha Giang.

For example, I made a stop in Dong Van, Vietnam’s northernmost city, to wander its historic old town. Both Dong Van and my next stop, Pho Bang, are known for their well-preserved traditional houses, and I have to say both places were highlights of my 14 days in Vietnam. 

Another attraction around these parts is Vuong Palace. Surrounded by lush green mountains and terraced fields in the picturesque Sa Phin Valley, it’s just 15km to the west of Dong Van. 

As for what to expect, and why to visit, built for a local Hmong king in the 1920s, this grand mansion offers stunning views of the Dong Van Karst Plateau — a UNESCO Global Geopark. At the same time, the visitor centre provides insights into the lifestyle, culture and traditions of the Hmong people.

Rounding off a really fascinating day in exciting style, I travelled over the Yen Minh Pass towards Ha Giang before checking into my accommodation for the night. 

On day 10 I hiked Sapa's majestic mountains

After overnighting in Ha Giang, I spent the next day journeying through spectacular mountain landscapes to Sapa via Lao Cai.

This was a classic case of the journey being every bit as rewarding as the destination. The Lao Cai province is known for its stunning landscapes — notably the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range, which includes the highest peak in Vietnam — and terraced rice fields. 

The latter of which are especially picturesque around Sapa — my home for the night.

Day 11 was an epic homestay trek

Next morning, I met a local guide who took me to Cat Cat village to kick off trekking a gobsmackingly beautiful trail that took us through terraced rice fields.

Passing rushing waterfalls and babbling streams along the way, we stopped off for a riverside lunch at the Y Linh Ho village of the Black Hmong ethnic group. Honestly, it took some effort to leave this place. Not because the walk was hard — rather, as a result of it being so darn beautiful. 

But that sense of regret was short-lived when we continued towards the magnificent Muong Hoa valley and arrived in Ta Van village for my homestay with a family of the Giay ethnic group. 

After a warm welcome, I enjoyed a dip in the river (the perfect way to soothe my muscles after a five-hour hike) before we ate together that evening. In a word  — magic. 

Want to experience Vietnam in more authentic style? Read our guide to the best homestays in Vietnam.

I hiked Hoang Lien National Park on day 12 

After breakfasting in my homestay and saying my goodbyes to the Giay family who’d hosted me so warmly, the next day of my trip saw me embark on an incredible three-hour trek within Hoang Lien National Park. 

I left Ta Van early and followed an enchanting route through towering bamboo forest to the Giang Ta Chai village of the Red Dao ethnic group. A highlight was pausing for lunch in the shade right by a cascading waterfall before continuing to the village of Su Pan.

Comprising four small hamlets that are home to the Black H’mong and Red Zao groups, this serene and scenic mountain community was a wonderful place to savour my last hours in rural Vietnam.

Later that afternoon, I returned to Sapa (it’s around 17 miles from Su Pan) ready for my overnight train to Hanoi.

On day 13-14 I explored Hanoi’s Old Quarter

After a pretty comfortable night’s sleep on the train, I arrived in Hanoi the next morning, which left me plenty to time to pick up where I’d left off some weeks earlier.

I mainly focussed on exploring Hanoi’s Old Quarter — an ancient area that’s loaded with modern dynamism, courtesy of its staggering numbers of cafes, food stalls, restaurants and vendors.

As luck would have it, my Friday arrival coincided with the quarter’s night market — it’s held from around 7pm on every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. 

After a late night at the market (it covers in the region of 3km), I headed to my accommodation before taking a taxi to the airport the next morning — already planning my next visit to Vietnam.

Undecided about which urban areas to focus on? Read our guide to the best Vietnam cities for first-timers, and our feature on whether to visit Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City first.

Inspired by my two-week trip? You might want to check-out another itinerary for spending 14 days in Vietnam, and get yourself The Rough Guide to Vietnam to help you plan your trip.

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