Where to stay
This cosy pub is a great base for a night out in lively Ardara. Rooms are spacious and modern and the bar downstairs serves simple pub meals.
A friendlier bed and breakfast is hard to imagine. Hannah can do you dinner if you request in advance and if you stay two nights she'll throw in bike hire.
This classic four-star hotel has huge rooms and a lovely courtyard out the back for drinks. It's right in the centre of Westport too.
Where to eat
Seaview Tavern, Malin Head
Call at least a day ahead for the lobster - it's caught fresh locally and served grilled overlooking the ocean. Heaven.
An Port Mor, Westport
Plenty of local produce is on the menu here, from oysters and mussels through to chunky steaks. There's a lovely bistro-style vibe.
The south: Galway to Kinsale
Galway is worth a two-night stop, for the chance to stroll through the ancient fishing village of Claddagh and along the promenade to Salthill for freshly baked cakes. You could also take a day off from the driving by joining a day tour to The Burren and Cliffs of Moher. The Burren is a karst limestone landscape replete with ancient monuments and home to plenty of native flora, while the Cliffs of Moher are simply unmissable - running for 8km and rising up to 200 metres above the crashing Atlantic.
Further south there's more dramatic coastal scenery at Loop Head in County Clare, which stretches out to sea for about 25km. Take a clifftop stroll here and look out for dolphins.