Sail down the creek at sunset for a most rewarding experience – at this hour, it’s completely still and the estuary is teeming with life. Expect to see plants sprouting happily from the riverbanks and birds skimming across the water silhouetted against the sunset.
Also worth a visit is the Boatyard: an outdoor seafood restaurant overlooking all the old-fashioned ships that sit in the creek – the perfect place for a sundowner.
Where can I stay?
Kilifi isn’t home to the huge resorts other parts of this coastline are popular for, but there are plenty of excellent options for all budgets. Either side of the creek there is a smattering of lodges, hotels, self-catering properties and restaurants.
For a comfortable budget stay, try Distant Relatives eco lodge. It’s relaxed and friendly, with huge cushions made from Kenyan Kanga material, a games room and a bar serving dawas: a cocktail made from vodka, lime juice and honey, garnished with a stick of sugar cane. Accommodation consists of large bandas (houses with bamboo roofs, outdoor showers and composting toilets), and there’s a pool.
Kilifi Konnection has some spectacular rental properties, including a houseboat, while for mid range hotels, try Kilifi Bay Beach Resort, which is set on the beautiful Bofa beach.
There are also a few high-end resorts like Mara Engai for those looking for a little luxury.
How do I get around?
Taxis are available in and around Kilifi but the most convenient way to get from A to B is by Boda (motorbike taxi), Tuk Tuk (a three-wheeled motorbike) or water taxi (small boat).
Tuk Tuks are the preferred on-land option, as long as you don’t mind the spine-jangling effect of filling this small vehicle with passengers. It’s best to book water taxis through your accommodation; then when you reach the harbour they’ll be ready waiting for you.
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