For the intrepid explorer: Puerto Almacén to Santa Ana de Yacuma
Mode of transport: Cargo boat and 4x4
Length of journey: 3–5 days
Suggested season: Dry: April–Oct
Travel by cargo boat deep into the Amazon jungle is the ultimate adventure. Persuade a captain in Puerto Almacén, near Trinidad, to give you passage on his cargo boat and pack your waterproof clothing for the inevitable jungle showers. What makes this journey unmissable is the clamour and closeness of the jungle which encompasses the craft on its voyage, and the opportunities for sighting toucans and kingfisher in the boughs along the shoreline.
Before returning to Trinidad, spend a few days of descanso (rest) in Santa Ana. Convince a local to take you by canoe up smaller tributaries on the hunt for caiman or to spot howler and capuchin monkeys. When finally you return to Trinidad by 4x4, it’s worth the discomfort of the unpaved road. The land here is pampas – fertile, wet lowlands – and home to lounging, roadside capybara and venues of vultures who scatter as you pass.
This route back also includes a lake crossing by wooden car ferry: twenty minutes of calm reflection as the boat navigates the watery landscape.
For the active traveller: Uyuni to El Salar de Uyuni to Sabaya
Mode of transport: Bicycle
Length of journey: 3–4 days
Suggested season: Dry
If exploring El Salar de Uyuni – the world’s largest salt flats – on an organised tour doesn’t appeal, then this journey is for you.
The 300km route between Uyuni, El Salar de Uyuni and El Salar de Coipasa by bike is a unique alternative. Camp overnight on Isla de Pescado and sign the visitor’s book for cyclists. If you’d rather pitch up away from civilisation, a further 20km will bring you to Isla Pescador, a rarely-visited spot providing unrestricted views of sunset and sunrise across this surreal salt plain.
Continue further north to reach El Salar de Coipasa; tourist-free, appreciate here the emptiness and desolation of the seemingly limitless expanse of salt. Finish in the small town of Sabaya, roughly 100km from the city of Oruro, and recuperate with good food and a pleasant hotel.
This is a journey only for the well-equipped: sun protection and long sleeves will safeguard you from the worst of the reflected sun’s rays, while camping gear (with warm layers for night-time) and a compass or GPS are indispensable. Sufficient water and food are essential as few shops exist along the route.