5. Head down to old Chinatown
During the Raj, the city had a significant Chinese community. In north Kolkata a bustling Chinatown developed, filled with restaurants, temples, markets, shops and even opium dens. Little remains of this world today – most of Kolkata’s 2000 Chinese residents have decamped to the Tangra district east of the centre – but a few echoes remain.
In an unprepossessing location, off Ganesh Chandra Avenue, above a petrol station and up a gloomy flight of steps, is the long-running, family-run Eau Chew, one of the city’s oldest Chinese restaurants.
Its tasty, copiously portioned “chimney soups”, which are cooked slowly around a metal coal-burning container, is particularly good, especially when followed by the roast duck.
6. Indulge your sweet tooth
Bengalis have a famously sweet tooth, and there are plenty of places in Kolkata in which to indulge. Perhaps the most famous sweetshop is Ganguram, which has branches scattered throughout the city.
Don’t miss the rosogulla (syrupy cottage cheese-and-semolina dumplings), sandesh (a sugary, creamy sweetmeat), or the mishti doi (a thick, sweetened yoghurt often flavoured with cardamom and served in earthenware pots).