Brief history of Bariloche
Before the incursions of the Mapuche and Spanish, the area was the domain of indigenous tribes, whose livelihood largely depended on the lake and trade with their western, Mapuche, counterparts. The discovery of their mountain passes (the name Bariloche is derived from a native word meaning “people from beyond the mountains”) became an obsession of early Spanish explorers in Chile, many of whom were desperate to hunt down the wealth of the mythical City of the Caesars. Knowledge of the passes’ whereabouts was a closely guarded secret until the 1670s. The history of the non-autochthonous presence in the region really began when the Jesuit Nicolás Mascardi was dispatched by the Viceroy to found a mission around that time. The natives put paid to Mascardi and his successors and, in 1717, the mission was abandoned. The local indigenous groups took one Jesuit introduction more to their hearts than Christianity: the apple (manzana). Used for cider, wild apples became so popular that the region’s Mapuche tribes became known as Manzaneros.
Modern Bariloche has its roots in the arrival of German settlers from southern Chile in the early twentieth century, but was tiny until the creation of the national park in 1937. In recent decades, the population has skyrocketed, and the town is now a major urban centre, though the homogeneity of its original alpine-style architecture has sadly been swamped by a messy conglomerate of high-rise apartment blocks. In 2011, the eruption of volcano Pueyehue in Chile, just over 90km from Bariloche, carpeted the surrounding area in ash. There were severe disruptions to flights as far as Buenos Aires for some months and the mess took time to clear up, with some people shutting up shop altogether and leaving town. By 2013, however, the volcano was slumbering again and life had largely returned to normal.
Accommodation in Bariloche
Accommodation in Bariloche is plentiful but pricey (it can be as much as forty percent cheaper in low season), and you should reserve in advance throughout the year for the cheaper options, which fill rapidly – and in high season for all accommodation.
Eating in Bariloche
Bariloche has a large and some excellent places to eat, most within walking distance of the centre. Calle Mitre is also lined with stores selling local specialities such as chocolate, smoked trout, jams and ice cream. Catering for large numbers of tourists, restaurants tend to have extended opening hours (but vary depending on the season). Some stay open between lunch and dinner in high season.
Drinking and nightlife in Bariloche
With the constant influx of Argentine students mixing with an onslaught of thirsty backpackers and locals, Bariloche has a lively movida and some excellent microbreweries. Bars are scattered around town, while the majority of the pub action is along Elflein and on Juramento. However, drinking can be expensive – plan on spending about a third more than elsewhere in Argentina in the trendiest bars.